Issue #27: Specificity = Cool
A new equation for wearing one idea many ways
Call in the academics! I have a new theory that has yet to be disproved: Specificity = Cool. Consider this a new equation for outfit chemistry: fewer variables, stronger looks. When you work within a narrowed lane (a color story, a silhouette, an era code) and remix within it, there is great potential for success. I’m coining it subtractive dressing - the art of wearing one idea many ways, inspired by some fellow digital fashionistas.
Since spending more time on the Substack platform, I keep finding people doing precise work - be that commentary, creativity or utility - that’s convinced me my genius mathematical equation holds up. Specific = Cool!!!
UNWORN
Last week, I discovered Unworn and was truly blown away.
Unworn is a Substack + Instagram project about maintaining and caring for clothes. It’s beautiful and deeply competent — clear voice, clear mission. I felt engaged, inspired, and, yes, a touch jealous of such a distinct (and frankly helpful) angle.
Their infographics are beautiful and inspirational — especially as sweaters come out of hiding, now is the time to give your knits some TLC.
Their Instagram is divine. It makes me want to do a complete revamp! Look at this feed!!!!! Instagram feels like brain-rot city until you come across something like this.
From a quick browse, I’ve already learned some clothing care tricks. Like…
The sweater refresh trifecta:
De-pill first with a sweater stone or fabric shaver before washing so pills don’t felt.
Cold wash + squeeze, never wring (a clean towel burrito beats twisting).
Dry flat and store folded to avoid shoulder nubs.
Bonus laundry nerd hack I loved: treat tannin stains (coffee/tea/wine) with a bit of detergent + cold water before any heat. Treat protein stains (sweat/blood/milk) with enzymatic detergent and cold water— hot water cooks proteins in place.
Specific! Help! Is! COOL!
MYA GELBER / PRIMARY SCHOOL
Mya Gelber, you’ve probably seen her on Instagram, dresses almost exclusively in primary colors. Every time I re-stalk her look, I think: maybe I should go full primary too. It’s simple, chic yet still playful.
I like to believe I dress in a way that’s hard to copy (pride! ego! hubris!), so it’s rare I see an outfit online I’d wear 1:1. Yet Mya shares looks I’d replicate exactly — spot-on curation, color, silhouette, quality. If you want clean, repeatable outfits and a compelling case for primary colors, she’s your gal. Plus, she’s just graduated from law school, which makes her legally stylish.
I think out of all the style-specific directions I could take, I would most likely commit to some color scheme. Imagine a world where you’ve committed to a color scheme, and therefore you can wear everything with everything. To me, that sounds like a certain type of nirvana that Mya seems to be already living in.
Above, you can see one of the best outfits ever worn.
Breakdown: yellow kerchief, dark gray/navy coat, firehouse-red tights, neutral glove heels with matching bag. No competing prints! Color carries the day.
Why the math sings: primary triad = maximum contrast with built-in harmony. One dominant texture (matte wool coat) + one simple shape (also from the coat) lets the bright colors carry the outfit. Accessories stay simple/nearly invisible, which prevents crayon chaos.
VERONIKA KORENBLUM / RARE COPY
I’m prepared to argue that Veronika Korenblum is the best-dressed woman on the internet. Her devotion to Old Céline and Phoebe Philo is awe-inspiring. She actually sparked this whole specificity thesis.
To dive into her genius mind… read her substack Rare Copy.
She can make me want nude aviator glasses… that is miraculous! This is my favorite all-time look of hers.
Being in love with one brand from a particular era, down to a specific designer, signals a rare kind of taste literacy. You’ve identified the exact thing that lights you up, and you stick with it, trends be damned. I envy the conviction — and her closet.
Do I become a Céline collector? I wish. Maybe one day. Part of me resists committing because there’s so much to learn. I’m only just now realizing that YSL’s center of gravity is rock-and-roll. What if there’s a breakthrough waiting, and I’ve already pledged allegiance elsewhere?
Veronkia recently wrote about her own "Collector's Crisis" here, which is highly relatable in regard to grappling with one’s own changing identity and how that affects one's portrayal of self online.
P.S. - I aspire to her creative mix of graphics in her Substack posts!
JL Specificity Starter Kit Menu
All these ruminations on specificity have led me to want my own sort of specificity! Because I wanna be cool too!!!
If you’re feeling similarly, here are some options to consider when searching for specificity. Join me?
Color Constraint — Pick one color family (primaries, olives, black-and-white, navy-denim) and wear it for 3 days straight. Notice what feels good vs. what feels forced. You’ll learn your best harmonies, which tones cheapen vs. elevate, and how much contrast you actually like! You’ll also see what colors you're naturally drawn to based on what you already own. If you get two repeatable color combos, that sounds like success to me!
Silhouette Stasis — Choose a uniform (think: boxy knit + straight trousers or slip + blazer). Repeat it with small tweaks like shoe height, belt or beltless… etc. Pretend you’re packing for a trip and this is all you can wear. Does the constraint feel freeing or boring? Does having a formula get you out the door sooner? Is that the goal?
Era Study — Pick one designer or era (Philo Céline FW13–SS15… 80’s YSL… 90’s J.Crew) and look through their runways or press materials. This is fun!!!! Check out Vogue Runway, YouTube, or Pinterest. Screenshot the looks you love, and then examine them to find commonalities. What is the grammar (pleats, color, shape, pairings, etc) behind the looks you love? Once you have a sense of your taste, in the context of these photos, look at your closet through this new light.
Signature Accessory — Wear one thing every single day! For as long as possible / is fun. It could be a bracelet, a coat, a pair of shoes, or jeans, but this recurring motif will span your looks and create a single echo that makes your outfits read as intentional.